Welcome to CB'S American Eskimo's!

CKC Registered Toy & Miniature Eskimos from

Champion bloodlines

Prcd-Pra Clear Pattern A * Hips/elbows good * For many generations 


Reputable Breeder of Champion Show Quality CKC & UKC Registered Toy,Miniature and Standard American Eskimo dogs in BC, Alberta, and most of Canada, tested for prcd - pra progressive retinal atrophy,

YOUR PUPPY'S CARE

 HOW WE RAISE & CARE FOR OUR PUPPIES

FOOD: Your puppy is free feeding and on Canadian Naturals brand & OR  Actrium holistic dog food (I mix the two together)

Canadian Naturals: http://www.canadiannaturals.com/pages/dog-productline.php

I am feeding your puppy solid dog food from Canadian Naturals. It’s a Canadian made dog food, and so far, I like it! There is no corn or Gluten in it and lots of good healthy food, excellent ingredients, no fillers, high protein, & the first ingredient is meat. They have been doing very well on it, but remember, they are only on this solid food from 4 weeks til 8 weeks, then they go on to be with you! ;) You may slowly switch your puppy over to whichever dog food you prefer if done gradually. I also give whole foods such as cooked chicken and beef as well when we have it for dinner as often as I can as treats and is excellent for training. I also put Sunflower oil over all of their dry dog food and have found that their coats are doing very well with the added omega oil supplement. For an impressive coat, try Inflight formula from the states, this is what I’m using to get a huge healthy coat on my dogs for showing ;) www.inflightcoatformula.com

PLEASE NOTE: a sudden change of any food can cause stress and upset, do not change this puppy’s food too quickly. If you choose to change the food he is eating, please do so slowly adding small amounts of the food of your choice to the dog food I have been feeding. A gradual change should done be over 2 weeks if you plan on changing to another food. Your puppy is on free feed, which means he has food accessible to him her 24/7 It is advised after a couple of weeks and puppy has settled in that you get puppy on a regular schedule making sure puppy is still eating a balanced diet and a schedule can also help with house training as well.

 RAW:  I give raw bones and meat weekly to my adults, I avoid this with my puppies, though, as it may cause diarrhea/ soft stools at first, but I highly recommend raw food & fresh beef bones as often as you can. There is lots of info on the internet on the obvious benefits of feeding your dogs a raw diet, but whatever you feed will be up to you to research and make an informed diet decision.

 WATER:   Please use bottle water if you’re in the city - as the change in water may cause upset tummies; and loose stools causing serious problems and gradually add 10 % of yours every other day till puppy is used to the change; same with the food if you desire to change it; If you are on city water, keeping him/her on bottled water which is highly recommended.

 VISITING:  Be patient - Please realize this is a very traumatic time for your puppy, she/he has just left the nest; where he/she has had lots of litter mates and friends and mom and dad;  this is a complete change in your puppies life; and "may" cause stress which can end up with an illness if not careful; Refrain yourself from the desire to drag your new puppy all over town to "show him/her off" allow puppy to have settling in time; too much activity is not good for puppy all at once; treat puppy as you would a new born baby coming home from hospital the first day, quiet, and lots of love and snuggles is most important.

 VET AND HEALTH CARE:  Your new puppy should be taken to the vet as soon as possible upon settling in; your puppy came with a Vet’s report/record; please take this pamphlet with you to keep future records; and so your vet can see the vaccinations and de worming your puppy has had.

**** Your puppy comes to you with his/her first set of vaccinations, has been dewormed a minimum of 2X’s, has had a microchip implanted in the back of his/her neck between shoulder blades & had a vets health exam as well.

 FOR ANSWERS TO MOST OF YOUR QUESTIONS, GOOGLE!! TRY READ UP AND STUDY, PREPARING YOURSELF BEFORE THE NEW PUPPY ARRIVES IN YOUR HOME.

EMERGENCY’S: If you notice anything the first week you bring your puppy home, not drinking, not eating, diarrhea, vomiting or listlessness, please, bring your puppy into the vet immediately!!! Stress can cause issues, remember, you have a new baby, things happen, so watch him/her carefully and if you are concerned it’s better to be safe than sorry. Also remember that your puppy’s immune system isn’t fully developed yet!

 **PLEASE REMEMBER** TO GET YOUR PUPPIES BOOSTER VACCINATION THREE-FOUR WEEKS AFTER HIS FIRST VACCINATION DATE THAT IS ON HIS/HER RECORD:

~ Without this, your puppy is not properly protected from diseases!! ** Regular de- worming is very important as well and to be discussed with your vet and make sure to bring in your record of health when visiting the vet.

Also be sure to check and clean your puppy’s ears, teeth and clip their nails if they get too long.

 

TOYS:  your puppy has had many toys, its favorite toys are balls and stuffed animals; be careful of small parts that he/she may chew

SLEEPING:

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.”

-Charles Dickens (he must have had a puppy!)

 

That Dickens quote really sums up what it’s like having a puppy. There’s nothing more exciting than bringing your new puppy home, playing with him and kissing him on his cute little nose… it’s the best. And there’s nothing more horrifying than realizing that puppies seem to pee and poo constantly and finding out that they have zero respect for your need to sleep at night… it’s the worst. I’ll break it to you as gently as I can. If you have a new puppy, you’re not going to get a solid 8 hours of sleep for a while. If you accept that fact, it’ll be easier to do the necessary training to teach your puppy to sleep through the night. (taken from http://thehousebreakingbible.com/wp/training-surviving-night/ ) there are many different tried and proven techniques that you can find online. http://dogtime.com/reference/dog-training/708-housetraining-through-the-night-dunbar

 

Your puppy has been sleeping with litter mates; your puppy is used to sleeping on a bed made of blankets with his/her siblings. Please remember that he/she will be very lonely for a while – so please be patient, some crying during the night/early morning is very normal and is to be expected but usually does not last for long.

 PAPER & PUPPY PAD TRAINING:  your puppy is used to going on paper/puppy pads in a small, enclosed area, (aprox 4feet x 4feet) with his/her bed (crate) food and water. When he/she first wakes up from naps, or in the morning, make sure your puppy has done his/her business, then take your puppy out of the pen for playtime. As your puppy’s bladder gets mature, it will get easier for him/her to hold it longer. Watch for the typical sniffing the ground, turning and squatting, if you see this quickly say "NO!" sharply no pick him up and place back in his  pen with his puppy pads OR outside (Recommended for faster housetraining time) *** I highly recommend you set up a pen w/ with paper or puppy pads, food, water and his bed or crate at first, as you can monitor them much easier and they won’t be “going” all over your house. This is also excellent for when you not at home, while at work, in town, etc…. As they grow older they have more space to roam and therefore more accidents; please be patient house training takes time and there will be accidents!!  As he/she gets a little older, he/she will be able to hold his bladder for longer periods of time. The end result is to train your puppy to wait until you bring him/her outside to go.

TRAINING YOUR PUPPY TO COME:  I teach your puppy what “NO” means and “COME” by the time they leave for your house at 8 weeks old. To teach come, I “kiss”, that’s the only command I use, just a kissing noise. I ALWAYS - ALWAYS have a treat as the reward; either chicken or beef that I give them EVERY single time I call them with a “kissing” sound… this will have your puppy running to you in no time! ;)  When you have named your puppy, say its name followed by the “kissing” sound every time you call it. IT IS SO IMPORTANT to offer its favorite treat EVERY time as a reward J

TRAVELLING:  puppy has been exposed to car rides to prepare for his/her trip but again do not overdo it at first, again, give him a couple of weeks to adjust to the change before going for too long of car rides.

Hypoglycemia:  Or low blood sugar level…. Caused from lack of eating due to stress….this is just a caution alert and to make you aware of this occasional problem/ the smaller your puppy the more the risk;  this is a condition that toy dogs can have  (teacup as they call them under 4lbs) it is low blood sugar if you witness a low blood sugar attack, i.e.; weakness, lethargic,  get some sugar water into puppy and call your vet; this can cause death;  this is mainly caused by a lack of eating and drinking due to stress, this is mainly a problem found mainly in the tiny toy dogs such as smaller Pomeranians; you will recognize this if it happens as puppy will become very listless. *** Again, this is only a warning and is seen rarely ***

 

GUARANTEE/CONTRACT & CKC REG PAPERS:  A bill of sales and contract will accompany all puppies when they are delivered via Air. The health records and completed paperwork will be in the crate under their beds.

Contracts must be completed, and a copy returned to the breeder at the time the  deposit is placed.

Payment in FULL is due before the puppy can leave my home at 8 weeks old or until the planned/discussed time. I will email you the One Year Health Guarantee and you will need to FILL in your info, print, scan it and send it back to me via email OR by regular mail. There will be a signed copy of this agreement, whether a pet stock agreement or show/breeding agreement in your puppy info pack which will accompany your puppy on delivery day.

 COVID AND CKC PAPERS* CKC PAPERS WILL TAKE UP TO A YEAR AT THIS POINT TO COME BACK AS THINGS ARE EXTREMELY SLOW WITH THE CANADIAN KENNEL CLUB

MICROCHIP: Your puppy has a microchip that has been implanted at the back of its neck under the hide between the shoulder blades. This chip is registered with the Canadian Kennel Club and will be documented under YOUR name and also comes with a 6-week insurance trail period through Pet Secure. There will be information about your insurance with your paperwork that will accompany your puppy. https://www.petsecure.com/

 HEALTH INSURANCE: I use Pet secure health insurance; your microchip comes with 6 weeks of free coverage for accident and illness up to $1000.00 after the trail period they will contact you to see if you would like to continue with them.

www.petsecure.com

 PETSTOCK CONTRACTS: *** As soon as I receive proof of spay/neuter, I will send your CKC Registration papers to you! YOU WILL NOT RECEIVE YOUR CKC PAPERS UNTIL THEN! No questions asked!

 

Please: Love and enjoy you new puppy and take the time to learn how to care for her/him; this is a lifetime commitment J be patient! It’s not easy raising a puppy!!  

 Chelsea  1-250-991-1216

www.cbstoyamericaneskimos.com